Oudong: Cambodia’s forgotten royal capital revealed
From 1618 until the mid‑19th century, Oudong was Cambodia’s capital, a “city of a thousand monasteries”
Just 35 kilometres from Phnom Penh lies Oudong, a hilltop complex once the beating heart of Cambodia. From 1618 until the mid‑19th century, this was the nation’s capital, a “city of a thousand monasteries” whose legacy still lingers among its stupas and sacred relics.
Today, Oudong is often overlooked by international visitors rushing north to Angkor Wat. Yet for locals, it remains a cherished day trip, offering sweeping views, ornate temples and a living link to Cambodia’s royal past. Sixteen stupas hold the remains of kings, while a silver‑bright temple crowned with a golden Buddha dominates the summit of the 93‑metre hill. Nearby, a stone pagoda with four Buddha faces peers through the trees, lending an ethereal atmosphere.
Tour guide Nao Sok calls Oudong Cambodia’s most underrated destination. He urges travellers to arrive at dawn or dusk, when the sun paints the hill in warm light and the air is cooler. The climb of more than 500 steps is punctuated by colourful flags, fruit offerings and monks in saffron robes crossing rice paddies.
Unlike Angkor, Oudong can be explored in a few hours. There are no souvenir stalls or ticket booths, and entry is free. Visitors are advised to dress modestly to enter temples or the nearby Vipassana meditation centre, and to bring water as facilities are sparse.
French researcher Grégory Mikaelian notes that much of Cambodia’s post‑Angkorian heritage was built in wood and has vanished.
Underground radar suggests more structures lie hidden around Oudong, but restoration is slow. Cambodia nominated the site for UNESCO status in 2020, though it was not accepted.
Still, investment in tourism infrastructure — including Phnom Penh’s new $2 billion airport — could raise Oudong’s profile. British writer Marissa Carruthers, a long‑time resident of Phnom Penh, highlights a memorial to Khmer Rouge victims among the pagodas, a sobering reminder of Cambodia’s recent past.
For those willing to look beyond Angkor, Oudong offers an authentic glimpse into history, spirituality and everyday Cambodian life — without the crowds.
Source: https://aseannow.com/topic/1380202-oudong-cambodia%E2%80%99s-forgotten-royal-capital-revealed/
